Tips
How to Work with Highly Curled Natural Lashes – Curly Lash Application Technique
Jun
Applying lash extensions on highly curled natural lashes requires a different approach than standard application. Curly lashes sit higher, often rest lower on the patches, and change the working angle of the tweezers. In this article, we walk through the technique step by step, with practical insights for intermediate-level lash artists.
Eye Prep – Safety First
When working with lashes that have a strong curl, correct securing of the lower lash line is critical. Place patches at a safe distance from the waterline to protect the eye while effectively separating the lower lashes. Extra tape can be used to anchor individual lashes that tend to slip out from under the patch.
Stay especially alert with clients who fall asleep during the service and begin to unknowingly open their eyes. Adhesive fumes can cause serious irritation, so eyelid stabilization and monitoring eye closure are part of professional practice.
Pretreatment – Clean Lashes and Moisture Balance
Curly lashes are often finer and more delicate, so thorough cleansing without over-drying is essential. The procedure should include:
- applying a protein remover
- thorough cleansing with lash cleanser
- applying primer to restore optimal moisture balance
Primer plays a particularly important role here — after degreasing with alcohol, the lash can become overly dry, which affects adhesive adhesion. Properly balancing the lash surface improves set retention.
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Mapping for Curly Lashes
In this example, a cat eye style was applied, with lengths from 6 mm at the inner corner to 12 mm at the center and 10 mm at the outer corner.
When working with curly lashes, keep in mind that their visual length differs from straighter lashes. The same millimeter measurement can appear shorter because of the curl. Length selection should therefore be more deliberate, taking the natural lash growth angle into account.
Application Technique – Working from Below the Lash
One of the most important aspects of working with curly lashes is the direction of application. Because of the stronger curl, natural lashes lift higher, which makes the classic “from above” approach more difficult.
Application from beneath the natural lash is recommended. Gently lifting the eyelid with tape improves access to the lash base and enhances visibility.
Starting at the inner corners allows you to handle the shorter, finer lashes first — these tend to be most challenging near the end of the service.
Adhesive Control
With strongly curled lashes, a minimal, precise amount of adhesive is especially important. A drop that’s too large can disrupt the placement angle of the extension and cause rotation in the set.
A 0.5–1 second bond time adhesive works best, allowing quick stabilization without excessive product movement. From the Glashland range, the Princess adhesive is a suitable choice for this technique: Princess – eyelash glue long lasting – 5 ml
Separation and Stickies Control
Working with curly lashes increases the risk of stickies due to the natural lash growth angle. The separation check should be performed layer by layer — from above and from below using a mirror.
Every sticky found should be gently separated with a tweezer, stabilizing the lashes at the base. Only thorough separation ensures the correct natural lash growth cycle and high client comfort.
Most Common Mistakes When Working with Curly Lashes
- selecting extensions that are too long relative to the strong curl
- applying only from above without controlling the angle
- not stabilizing the eyelid on hooded eyes
- too much adhesive causing set rotation
- incomplete layer-by-layer stickies check